At the 2025 Michelin Guide Shanghai event, esteemed chefs, restaurant owners and industry professionals gathered to celebrate the top in the food and beverage sector. Among the mostly male chefs, Chen Lina, a graceful woman in a blue hat, stood out. Her artisanal xiaolongbao (steamed stuffed buns) restaurant Wu You Xian received one Michelin star, making it Shanghai's first dim sum restaurant to achieve such an honor.
At that moment, Chen was not entirely clear on what Michelin meant, much like the array of accolades adorning the entrance of her restaurant, most of which she didn't even recognize until later.
As the owner and chef of Wu You Xian, Chen holds the prestigious title of a national first-class dim sum chef who likens her xiaolongbao to her "cherished children" and the "work of art".
At 19, she apprenticed at time-honored restaurant Lyubolang in Shanghai and was sent to Japan in 2005, where she introduced the famous Shanghai dim sum to Osaka.
Chen, a nationally renowned chef, secured a Michelin star for her dim sum restaurant Wu You Xian, establishing it as Shanghai's first dim sum restaurant to receive such an accolade. [Photo provided to China Daily]
After achieving great success in Japan, Chen returned to her homeland and started afresh in Zhaojialou, an ancient town in Minhang district.
Chen elucidated that the name Wu You Xian is derived from the Japanese term "Oishii", which means delicious or tasty, and also symbolizes the concept of "freshness within the establishment" in Chinese.
"We've had lines since the opening of Wu You Xian; it has always been very popular," Chen notes. Starting with xiaolongbao with pork filling, her passion for dumplings drove her to create diverse flavors like crab xiaolongbao.
"The first time I made crab xiaolongbao, I sold 11 baskets. I was so thrilled, I couldn't sleep." Apart from daily crowds, many touching stories have unfolded at her restaurant, which has deeply moved Chen and provided her with the motivation to persevere.
Chen always remembers a tearful embrace from a stranger.
"Your xiaolongbao have changed our family. Last night, my wife completed the household chores in anticipation of enjoying your dishes this morning. We have never experienced such delight in dining out," the emotional stranger expressed.
At that moment, Chen realized that recognition from her customers had fulfilled her greatest expectations, surpassing the mere significance of the delicacies.
In 2023, Zhaojialou town's renovation forced Wu You Xian to relocate. Eight months later, a new store opened in the downtown area of South Maoming Road.
Over the years, Chen single-handedly developed the 28 flavors of xiaolongbao currently on the menu. These soup dumplings feature a variety of delicacies, ranging from the meat, roe and milt of hairy crabs to sea cucumber, truffle, abalone, mantis shrimp, mushroom and scallops.
When it comes to ingredients, she spares no expense.
One of her favorite dishes Jiejie Gao, a xiaolongbao with mantis shrimp and crab meat, takes a whole mantis shrimp to make just one. For Baoping'an, each xiaolongbao can yield two or more pieces of abalone together with crab pincers.
"Each bun weighs around 40 grams. Whether it's matsutake mushrooms or wild vegetables, there are no added seasonings — only natural ingredients," Chen explains.
Beyond the buns, vinegar pairings are meticulously chosen with at least five to six varieties to complement the different xiaolongbao flavors.
"For a pure crab filling, the vinegar needs to be slightly richer, while meat-filled ones require a lighter touch. A dash of lemon goes into those with crab roe and a hint of sugar for those with crab milt.
"I love xiaolongbao so much that I ponder tirelessly on perfecting each flavor each day," Chen says.
The dim sum restaurant has amassed numerous awards, including "China's independent innovation products", Dianping's "Must-Eat List", and the Michelin Bib Gourmand Award. For Chen, the swarming customers are the ultimate form of recognition.
"At peak times, the queues extend across the street, sometimes serving more than 1,000 customers in one day. By as early as 12:30 pm, the freshly prepared xiaolongbao are nearly sold out," Chen says.
Beyond warmly welcoming customers, Chen deeply values her employees. The shop's fixed working hours from 9 am to 6 pm ensure that staff have time for personal lives. "I would not want my employees to be exhausted. I always treat them like family members."
Under Chen Lina, xiaolongbao, or the steamed stuffed buns, work magic. [Photo provided to China Daily]
A double-edged sword
Despite Chen's dedication and hospitality over the years bringing numerous honors to the restaurant, fame seems to be a double-edged sword.
The constant influx of customers often leads to long queues. Witnessing guests who make a special trip but cannot be accommodated leaves her feeling guilty.
When faced with some negative online reviews, Chen meticulously reads through each one, feeling aggrieved by the controversies. She struggles to understand why her diligently crafted products and establishment attract certain negative feedback.
Nevertheless, her innate optimism allows her to swiftly overcome these emotions. She says: "Say what you want to say. I have a clear conscience. I just want to offer the best to everyone. Those who come into the restaurant are my guests and I treat them like family."
Chen warmly addresses each customer as "little brother", "little sister", "brother" or "sister". Her employees demonstrate to customers how to eat each xiaolongbao with enthusiasm.
Living alone in Shanghai while her husband and daughter live in Japan, Chen longs for family reunions but can't bring herself to let go of her employees and customers.
"Even though I sometimes feel frustrated and tired, I see my employees working diligently and I feel refreshed. I want them to earn more to support their families. It's more about responsibility. I haven't seen my family for a long time but I don't know which side to give up."
Despite many hardships, xiaolongbao remains her source of joy.
"I've tasted sour, sweet, bitter and spicy in my life but whenever I think of xiaolongbao, all my troubles fade away and my emotions disappear," she says.
In December, Wu You Xian launched an English menu with clear instructions on how to enjoy xiaolongbao. When she sees foreign guests, she gestures and requests help all around. On the day of the interview, customers from Japan, Singapore and France were seated.
"I tried xiaolongbao in hotels and they were good but these are better for sure. You can taste the sophistication and freshness," remarks Jullien Florent, a Parisian. A friend recommended that he try the xiaolongbao based on the Michelin Guide.
As far as the future, Chen hopes to build her small restaurant into a century-old establishment passed down through generations.
"As I age, I aspire to settle down, observe the bustling activity from my office, and document the images and stories of everyone and everything that have happened at Wu You Xian."
The essence of her restaurant's warmth shines through every detail, echoing the Michelin judging panel's words: "While our focus typically centers on the food when awarding stars, Wu You Xian goes beyond. As we savor their delicious xiaolongbao, we not only enjoy exquisite flavors and innovation but also witness a dedication to perfection in every product detail despite its street-side setting. Their hospitable treatment of guests exudes a genuine human touch."
Editor:Qiu Xiaochen
